{"id":193050,"date":"2023-06-16T11:00:05","date_gmt":"2023-06-16T09:00:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.tapasmagazine.es\/?p=193050"},"modified":"2023-06-16T11:04:19","modified_gmt":"2023-06-16T09:04:19","slug":"why-fish-and-chips-is-the-british-gastronomy-icon","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.tapasmagazine.es\/en\/why-fish-and-chips-is-the-british-gastronomy-icon\/","title":{"rendered":"Why fish and chips is the icon of British gastronomy"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p><strong>Click <a href=\"https:\/\/www.tapasmagazine.es\/por-que-el-fish-and-chips-es-el-icono-de-la-gastronomia-britanica\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">here<\/a> to read the Spanish version.<\/strong><br>Fish and chips is as British as the pompous ceremonials, the white ermine in Westminster Abbey, the Savile Row tailor shops or raising your little finger while sipping your earl grey tea. This dish of working-class origin paradoxically sneaks into that snobbish list to build the nation&#8217;s cultural identity. Fog, soccer and fish and chips are the trilogy of the nostalgic evocation of an England of rough but gallant sailors, who brought to the table the cod they fished hard in the North Sea to feed their countrymen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The history of the dish begins with the persecution of the Jews in the Iberian Peninsula, during the 16th century. Many of them ended up in England, taking the fried fish with them. It was a Sephardic dish that they used to eat on Fridays. The leftovers, cold, were eaten the next day on the Sabbath, the Jewish day of rest, when cooking was not allowed. The secret was the use of oil, which sealed the flavors, made the flour crispy and the fish very tasty. To those ruddy islanders accustomed to lard, frying in oil seemed revolutionary.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It was not the only trip that this fried food undertook from our peninsula: the Japanese tempura arrived in Japan by the hand of the Spanish and Portuguese Jesuit missionaries, and owes its name to the Lenten season, when the Christians exchanged red meat for fish. From England it jumped to the Netherlands, which was also captivated by fish frying. And from there, it went to the United States, where President Thomas Jefferson became a fan of pesca\u00edto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-rich is-provider-instagram wp-block-embed-instagram\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<div class=\"sbi-embed-wrap\"><blockquote class=\"instagram-media sbi-embed\" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/CqGKXwLhcne\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" data-instgrm-version=\"14\" style=\" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:640px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);\"><div style=\"padding:16px;\"> <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/CqGKXwLhcne\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" style=\" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;\" target=\"_blank\"> <div style=\" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;\"> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;\"><\/div> <div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;\"> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;\"><\/div> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;\"><\/div><\/div><\/div><div style=\"padding: 19% 0;\"><\/div> <div style=\"display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;\"><svg width=\"50px\" height=\"50px\" viewBox=\"0 0 60 60\" version=\"1.1\" xmlns=\"https:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" xmlns:xlink=\"https:\/\/www.w3.org\/1999\/xlink\"><g stroke=\"none\" stroke-width=\"1\" fill=\"none\" fill-rule=\"evenodd\"><g transform=\"translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)\" fill=\"#000000\"><g><path d=\"M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631\"><\/path><\/g><\/g><\/g><\/svg><\/div><div style=\"padding-top: 8px;\"> <div style=\" color:#3897f0; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:550; line-height:18px;\">View this post on Instagram<\/div><\/div><div style=\"padding: 12.5% 0;\"><\/div> <div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;\"><div> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);\"><\/div> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;\"><\/div> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);\"><\/div><\/div><div style=\"margin-left: 8px;\"> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;\"><\/div> <div style=\" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)\"><\/div><\/div><div style=\"margin-left: auto;\"> <div style=\" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);\"><\/div> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);\"><\/div> <div style=\" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);\"><\/div><\/div><\/div> <div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;\"> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;\"><\/div> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;\"><\/div><\/div><\/a><p style=\" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/CqGKXwLhcne\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" style=\" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;\" target=\"_blank\">A post shared by McCormick &amp; Schmick&#39;s (@mcandschmicks)<\/a><\/p><\/div><\/blockquote><script async src=\"\/\/platform.instagram.com\/en_US\/embeds.js\"><\/script><\/div>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Jews first settled in London&#8217;s East End. The cradle of cockney (the language of London&#8217;s underworld), Iron Maiden and West Ham, it was also the scene of Jack the Ripper&#8217;s crimes. A slum that, because of its popular character, would become enduringly associated with unpleasant smells, bad behavior, poor hygiene and disease. Sephardic-style frying attracted the attention of the inhabitants of the islands.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>That it was a humble dish is shown by the fact that Dickens alludes in his Oliver Twist, of 1837, to the fried fish stores that marked the not very recommendable neighborhood of Saffron Hill, &#8220;commercial colony and emporium of rater\u00edas&#8221;, of desperate poverty, where there was no lack of fried fish, along with barber shops, breweries or second-hand stolen clothing stores.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The two centuries that separate its arrival in the British Isles from its boom are exactly how long it took to consolidate trawling in the North Sea and the development of the railroad, thanks to which fish could reach urban areas in optimum freshness conditions. The booming industrial revolution boosted business with steam for the fleets and cold for the refrigerators. Fish became cheaper.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tapasmagazine.es\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/dickens-oliver-twist.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tapasmagazine.es\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/dickens-oliver-twist-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-193047\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tapasmagazine.es\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/dickens-oliver-twist-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.tapasmagazine.es\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/dickens-oliver-twist-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.tapasmagazine.es\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/dickens-oliver-twist-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.tapasmagazine.es\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/dickens-oliver-twist-1000x563.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.tapasmagazine.es\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/dickens-oliver-twist-400x225.jpg 400w, https:\/\/www.tapasmagazine.es\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/dickens-oliver-twist.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Ilustraci\u00f3n de <em>Oliver Twist<\/em>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>But it still had to be accompanied by the canonical garnish: French fries. The English already enjoyed them separately. Chips had been known as something edible since the 18th century, and were usually seasoned with orange zest. Since then, the potato has become a staple food among the poor, a fundamental part of the diet in rural Ireland. They could also be fried.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In the Victorian era, fried potatoes were everywhere, whether in the form of delicate straw potatoes in upper-class salons or as fried sticks in street stalls. A Jewish fishmonger who emigrated from Eastern Europe, named Joseph Malin, was the first to come up with the idea, in 1860, of putting fried fish and potatoes together in a store in the East End. A cheap, tasty and satiating dish served in newspaper. Until then, fried potatoes were only sold in Irish stores. It was the first chippie, the name for fish and chip stores, in history. Its public was working class.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>By 1888, there were 10,000 chippies in the UK. By 1910, 25,000, despite official medical and social literature classically denigrating fish and chips as a terrible diet. Only the First World War, with inflation and the rising cost of raw materials, put a brake on the national &#8220;friersmania&#8221;. In World War II, fish and chips had to be taken off the ration cards because of its popularity. The fish was not the best, but morale remained high.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In 1928 Harry Ramsden&#8217;s in the north of England became the first British fast food chain. By then, two-thirds of the white fish landing on the coast was ending up in the fryer. Gradually, fish and chips began to gain popular esteem, gaining favor from all walks of life. In each region a particular taste has developed. Yorkshire prefers haddock, garnished with pea puree. Lancashire opts for hake and the Northeast for dogfish with curry sauce or mayonnaise.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Today polystyrene trays have replaced the sticky sheets of newspaper. With its touch of salt and vinegar, fish and chips is in its own right the great national dish of the United Kingdom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Cover illustration: Leonardo Berbes\u00ed.<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Click here to read the Spanish version.Fish and chips is as British as the pompous ceremonials, the white ermine in Westminster Abbey, the Savile Row tailor shops or raising your little finger while sipping your earl grey tea. This dish of working-class origin paradoxically sneaks into that snobbish list to build the nation&#8217;s cultural identity. [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":117,"featured_media":193042,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"single-feature.php","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[16002],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-193050","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-reportajes-en","cat-16002-id"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Why fish and chips is the icon of British gastronomy<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Fish and chips is an icon of fast food. We tell you why it is the national glory of British gastronomy. 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